CALIFORNIA 
AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE 

CIRCULAR  13 

September,  1927 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF 
MONTEREY  CHEESE 


C.  A.  PHILLIPS 


PUBLISHED  BY 

THE  COLLEGE  OF  AGRICULTURE 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Cooperative  Extension  work  in  Agriculture  and  Home  Economics,  College  of  Agriculture, 
University  of  California,  and  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  cooperating.  Dis- 
tributed in  furtherance  of  the  Acts  of  Congress  of  May  8  and  June  30,  1914.  B.  H.  Crocheron, 
Director,  California  Agricultural  Extension  Service. 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  PRINTING  OFFICE 
BERKELEY,  CALIFORNIA 

1927 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2011  with  funding  from 

University  of  California,  Davis  Libraries 


http://www.archive.org/details/manufactureofmon13phil 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  MONTEREY  CHEESE 

C.  A.  PHILLIPSi 


During  the  past  few  years,  the  name  'Monterey'  has  gradually 
replaced  that  of  'Jack'  on  the  markets,  although  'Non-standard  Jack' 
is  now  used  for  this  type  of  cheese  when  it  contains  more  than  42 
per  cent  of  moisture. 

The  California  Dairy  Law-  defines  Monterey  cheese  as  that  "made 
by  the  so-called  stirred-curd  or  granular  process,  without  added  color, 
characteristic  in  size,  and  molded  into  characteristic  shape  or  form  in 
bags  under  pressure,  and  containing  not  more  than  forty-l^«)  per  cent 
of  moisture." 

The  early  history  of  ]\Ionterey  cheese  is  given  by  Baird''  in  these 
w^ords : 

Jack  cheese,  sometimes  known  as  Monterey  clieese,  originated  in  Monterey 
County,  Californiaj  The  first  Jack  cheese  was  made  on  a  ranch  twenty  miles  south 
of  Monterey |ahyntj  1892.  The  method  grew  out  of  a  need  for  disposing  of  surplus 
milk  at  a  small  expense  for  equipment.  The  fact  that  it  requires  but  little  equip- 
ment makes  it  a  practical  method  on  farms  where  only  a  small  amount  of  milk 
is  available. 

Until  about  1912  very  little  was  knoAvn  of  this  cheese  outside  of  Monterey 
County.  Practically  all  the  cheese  which  Avas  not  sold  locally  was  marketed 
through  San  Francisco  wholesalers.  Previous  to  the  Avar  practically  all  this  cheese 
which  was  manufactured  consisted  of  full-cream  or  'table'  Jack.  Soon  after  the 
beginning  of  the  war,  hoAve\'er,  the  importation  of  grating  cheese  from  Europe 
was  cut  off,  and  in  order  to  take  care  of  the  trade  on  tliese  types  of  cheese  on 
the  Pacific  Coast,  San  Francisco  wholesalers  conceived  the  idea  of  replacing  it 
with  Jack  cheese.  Cheese  makers  Avere  given  instructions  to  make  the  Jack  from 
half -skim  milk  and  to  ship  it  as  soon  as  practicable  (about  one  Aveek  old).  The 
cheese  was  then  dried  and  cured  by  the  wholesaler. 

The  grating  cheese  Avhen  properly  made  and  cured  proved  to  be  a  fair  sub- 
stitute for  the  imported  brands  and  soon  became  popular  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
Eastern  buyers,  learning  of  this  cheese,  made  inquiry  and  asked  for  trial  ship- 
ments, and  the  result  was  that  large  orders  were  placed  with  San  Francisco  dis- 
tributors. Until  this  time,  practically  all  the  Jack  cheese  had  been  made  by  men 
experienced  in  the  manufacture  of  this  type  of  cheese,  and  a  good  product  was 
being  used  to  fill  eastern  orders.  This  large  demand,  hoAvever,  was  more  than 
could  be  supplied  by  the  factories  manufacturing  Jack  clieese  and  a  call  was  sent 


1  Assistant  Dairy  Technologist  in  the  Experiment  Station. 

2  California  Dairy  Laws  and  Regulations,  effective  July  29,  1927. 

-Baird,  H.  S.     Jack  cheese.     California  Agr.  Exp.  Sta.  Cir.  206:1-2.     1919. 
(Out  of  print.) 


4  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [CiRC.  13 

out  to  the  dairies  and  creameries  to  turn  their  raw  product  into  Jack  cheese, 
offering,  at  the  same  time,  very  attractive  quotations.  The  result  of  this  was 
disastrous  to  California  grating  Jack  cheese.  Jack  cheese  factories  sprang  up 
in  all  parts  of  the  state  and  many  creameries  made  Jack  cheese  as  a  side  line.  A 
large  portion  of  the  new  cheese  was  made  from  straight  skim  milk  and  naturally 
was  lacking  in  quality.  The  market  soon  became  over-supplied  with  an  inferior 
and  non-uniform  product,  and  the  failure  of  the  distributors  to  fill  their  orders 
with  a  high-quality  cheese  soon  destroyed  the  buyers'  faith  in  Jack  cheese. 

During  1926,  99  per  cent  of  the  Monterey  cheese  in  California  was 
made  in  factories  and  1  per  cent  on  farms.  Of  the  non-standard  Jack 
cheese,  however,  only  71.8  per  cent  was  manufactured  in  factories  and 
28.2  per  cent  on  farms. 


MILK    FOR    MONTEREY    CHEESE 

The  milk  for  Monterey  cheese  should  be  of  good  quality,  low  in 
acidity,  not  exceeding  0.18  per  cent,  and  free  from  gas-forming  bac- 
teria.    It  should  have  a  good  odor  and  flavor. 

Ster^ilization  of  Utensils. — All  utensils  coming  in  contact  with  the 
milk  should  be  thoroughly  sterilized  in  boiling  water  for  15  minutes 
or  in  live  steam  in  an  enclosed  container.  Several  suitable  types  of 
farm  sterilizers  are  now  on  the  market,  and  are  available  at  a  moderate 
price.  Strainer  cloths  should  not  be  used,  since  they  often  cause 
serious  contamination.  The  proper  procedure  is  to  keep  the  dirt  out 
of  the  milk ;  but  if  some  gets  in,  it  is  better  for  the  factory  operators 
to  remove  by  straining  through  equipment  which  can  be  readily  and 
thoroughly  sterilized.  Factory  experience  in  California  has  shown 
that  the  use  of  farm  strainers  that  are  not  thoroughly  sterilized  often 
injures  the  quality  of  the  milk. 

Cooling  the  Milk. — A  mixture  of  evening  and  morning  milk  is 
used.  Both  should  be  cooled  to  a  temperature  of  about  60°  Fahren- 
heit. Recent  experiments*  show  that  cheddar  cheese  scored  one  point 
higher  when  the  milk  was  cooled  before  manufacture  of  the  cheese. 
In  addition  to  preventing  rapid  bacterial  growth,  it  is  probable  that 
the  aeration  during  cooling  has  a  beneficial  effect  in  removing  abnormal 
flavors. 

Satisfactory  methods  of  cooling  milk  on  the  farm  are  described  by 
Gamble.^ 


4  Marquardt,  J.  C,  and  G.  J.  Hucker.  Effect  of  pasteurization  and  cooling  of 
milk  ujjon  the  quality  of  cheddar  cheese.  New  York  Agr.  Exp.  Sta.  Bui.  534:3. 
1926. 

5  Gamble,  J.  A.  Cooling  milk  and  cream  on  the  farm.  U.  S.  Dept.  Agr., 
Farmers'  Bui.  976:1-16.     Eevised  1923. 


1927] 


THE   MANUFACTURE   OF   MONTEREY   CHEESE 


Pasteurizing  the  Milk. — Some  difficulty  has  been  encountered  in 
producing  milk  suitable  for  the  manufacture  of  Monterey  cheese 
during  the  summer  months,  especially  in  the  inland  valleys  of  Cali- 
fornia. In  these  localities  much  of  the  milk  is  high  in  acidity  and 
contains  large  numbers  of  bacteria,  including  the  gas-forming  types. 


Fig,  1.- — Device  to  \v;ii-in  the  milk  hefore  it  readies  the  pasteurizer.     Tliis  fore- 
warmer  is  shown  above  the  receiving  vat. 

Experiments  conducted  during  the  past  two  years  at  the  California 
Agricultural  Experiment  Station*^  and  at  the  New  York  Experiment 
Station^  show  that  pasteurization  of  milk  improves  the  quality  of  the 

6  Unpublished  data. 

"  Price,  W.  V.     Tlie  manufacture  of  cheddar  cheese  from  pasteurized  milk  by 
the  holder  method.     Cornell  Agr.  Exp.  Sta.  Memoir  106:1-3G.     1927. 


6 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE 


[CiRC.  13 


cheese,  gives  greater  uniformity,  increases  the  yield,  and  eliminates 
the  gas-forming  bacteria.  Since  July,  1926,  the  University  Farm 
Creamery  has  used  pasteurized  milk  in  the  manufacture  of  all  Monte- 
rey cheese. 

The  vat  method  of  pasteurization,  that  is,  heating  to  140°  to  145°  F 
and  holding  for  30  minutes,  is  suitable  for  limited  production. 


Fig.  2. — The  surface  cooler,  over  which  the  flash  pasteurizer  forces  the  milk 
after  lieating. 

Manufacturers  have  not  found  this  method  practical  for  produc- 
tion on  a  large  scale  and  use  the  flash  method  instead.  Such  a  method 
is  practiced  at  the  University  Farm  Creamery.  The  milk  flows  by 
gravity  from  the  weigh-can  to  the  receiving  vat,  where  it  is  pumped 
over  a  forewarmer  (fig.  1)  and  heated  to  a  temperature  of  110°  F.  It 
then  flows  into  the  flash  pasteurizer,  where  the  temperature  is 
automatically  controlled.  It  is  heated  here  to  165°  F.  Higher  flash 
pasteurization  temperatures  have  an  undesirable  effect  on  the  flavor 
and  texture,  and  as  yet  are  not  recommended. 

The  flash  pasteurizer  forces  the  milk  through  sanitary  pipe  lines 
and  over  a  cooler  which  rests  on  top  of  the  cheese  vat  (fig.  2),  where 
it  is  cooled  to  88°  F  for  setting.  The  regenerative  system  of  flash 
pasteurization  is  also  recommended  for  factories  producing  cheese  in 
large  amounts.  The  foam  which  forms  on  top  of  the  milk  as  a  result 
of  agitation  should  be  raked  off. 

Standardizing  the  Milk. — According  to  the  California  Dairy  Law, 
whole-milk  cheese  ''shall  contain  not  less  than  50  per  cent  of  pure 


1927] 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  MONTEREY  CHEESE 


milk  fat  in  its  water-free  substance."  Heretofore  it  has  usually  con- 
tained more  than  this  required  amount.  Since  the  quality  of  the 
cheese  is  not  affected  to  any  extent  by  the  removal  of  a  small  amount 
of  fat,  many  manufacturers  have  been  standardizing  for  reasons  of 
economy. 

The  percentage  of  butterfat  that  may  be  removed  from  the  milk 
depends  upon  the  original  content  of  fat  and  solids-not-fat,  as  well  as 
upon  the  methods  used  in  making  the  cheese.  Milk  containing  from 
3.0  to  3.5  per  cent  fat  should  not  be  standardized;  but  4.0  per  cent 
milk  may  be  standardized  to  3.7  per  cent,  and  5.0  per  cent  milk  to  4.5 
per  cent,  without  disturbing  the  proper  relation  between  the  fat  and 
the  water-free  substance  in  the  cheese.  These  reductions  in  fat  con- 
tent, however,  are  only  approximate.  Each  manufacturer  must  use 
his  own  methods  according  to  the  analysis  of  his  cheese. 

Calculations  in  standardization  may  be  made  by  the  rectangular 
method,  and  the  amounts  of  milk  and  skim  milk  may  be  given  in 
pounds  or  gallons  as  follows : 

Problem :  Standardize  600  gallons  of  4.0  per  cent  milk  down  to 
3.7  per  cent,  using  skim  milk.    How  much  skim  milk  should  be  used? 

The  tests  of  the  milk  and  skim  milk  are  placed  at  the  left-hand 
corners  of  the  rectangle,  the  test  desired  being  placed  in  the  center. 
Subtractions  are  made  diagonally  across  the  rectangle,  the  resulting 
figures  being  the  parts  of  whole  milk  and  skim  milk  to  be  used. 


4.0 


0.0 


3.7 


^3.7  parts  whole  milk 


0.3  part  skim  milk 
4.0  parts  total 


Calculating : 

3.7  parts  =  600  gallons 

1.0  part   =  600  ~  3.7  =  162.16  gallons 

0.3  part   =  0.3  X  162.16  =  48.6  gallons 

Therefore,  48.6  gallons  of  skim  milk  may  be  added.     When  skim 
milk  is  not  available,  part  of  the  whole  milk  is  separated. 


8  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [CiRC.  13 

Problem : 

Standardize  600  gallons  of  4.0  per  cent  milk  to  3.7  per  cent  by 
separating  a  portion  of  the  milk  and  returning  the  skim  milk  to  the 
vat.  How  much  milk  should  be  separated,  if  the  cream  tests  35  per 
cent  butterf at  ? 

Let  G  =  number  of  gallons  of  milk  given. 
Let  A  =  percentage  of  fat  in  given  milk. 
Let  C  =  percentage  of  fat  in  cream. 

Let  B  =  percentage  of  fat  in  milk  after  adding  the  skim  milk. 
Let  X  =  number  of  gallons  to  be  separated. 

Let  M  =  amount  of  milk  after  returning  the  skim  milk  to  the  vat. 
C  (A—B)  G 


Then,  X 


Also,  M 


'     A  (C  —  B) 
(C  —  A)  G 


(C  —  B) 

Then,  for  proof,  A  (G  —  X)  =BM 

35(4  —  3.7)600        35  X  .3  X  600 
X=^ — .  /Q5       "q~7\ — —  — .  y  o-i  o — ^=50.32,  number  of  gallons  to  be  sep- 
^  ■   ^  '  arated. 

_(35  — 4)  600        31  X  600 
M  — — q;-        or, = oT"q =^  594.2  gallons  of  milk  after  adding  skim  milk. 


Proving, 

4  (600  —  50.32)  =  3.7  X  594.2 

4X549.68  =  3.7X594.2 

2198.72  =  2198.54 

(These  figures  will  not  check  exactly  Avlien  only  one  or  two  decimal  places  are 
used.) 

For   those  who   are   not   accustomed   to   working   with   algebraic 
formulas,  the  following  rule  is  given : 

A.  Eule  for  finding  the  amount  of  milk  to  be  separated. 

Step  1.  Subtract  the  percentage  of  fat  wanted  in  the  final  milk  (after  adding 
back  the  skim)  from  the  percentage  of  fat  in  the  given  milk  and  multiply 
the  result  by  the  percentage  of  fat  in  the  cream,  then  multiply  this  result 
by  the  number  of  gallons  of  milk  given. 

Step  2.  Subtract  the  percentage  of  fat  wanted  in  the  final  milk  from  the 
percentage  of  fat  in  the  cream,  and  multiply  the  result  by  tlie  percentage 
of  fat  in  the  given  milk. 

Step  3.  Divide  the  final  result  of  step  1  by  the  final  result  of  step  2.  The 
result  of  this  division  will  be  the  number  of  gallons  of  the  given  milk  to 
be  separated. 


1927]  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF   MONTEREY   CHEESE  9 

Example  (using  problem  given  above)  : 

Step  1.     4  —  3.7  =  0.3;   0.3  X  35  =  10.5;   10.5  X  600  =  6300. 

Step  2.     35  —  3.7  =  31.3 ;  4  X  31.3  =  125.2. 

Step  3.     6300  ^  125.2  =  50.32,  number  of  gallons  of  milk  to  be  separated. 

B.  Kule  for  finding  M,  the  final  amount  of  milk. 

Step  1.  Subtract  the  percentage  of  fat  in  the  given  milk  from  the  percentage 
of  fat  in  the  cream  and  multiply  the  result  by  the  amount  of  given  milk. 

Step  2.  Subtract  the  percentage  of  fat  w\anted  in  the  final  milk  from  the 
percentage  of  fat  in  the  cream. 

Step  3.  Divide  the  final  result  of  step  1  by  the  result  of  step  2.  This  will  be 
the  number  of  gallons  of  final  milk. 

Example : 

Step  1.     35  —  4  =  31;   31X600  =  18,600. 
Step  2.     35  —  3.7  =  31.3. 

Step  3.     18,600  ^  31.3  =  594.25,  the  final  amount  of  milk. 

C.  Kule  for  checking  results. 

Step  1.  Subtract  the  amount  of  milk  separated  from  the  amount  of  given 
milk,  and  multiply  the  result  by  the  percentage  of  fat  in  the  given  milk. 

Step  2.  Multiply  the  amount  of  final  mlk  by  the  percentage  of  fat  v^anted 
in  it. 

The  results  of  steps  1  and  2  should  be  very  nearly  equal.     Example: 
Step  1.     600  —  50.32  =  549.68;   4X549.68  =  2198.72. 
Step  2.     3.7X594.2  =  2198.54. 

Making  the  Starter. — Although  a  starter  shoiikl  be  used,  some 
manufacturers  are  making  fairly  uniform  Monterey  cheese  without 
it ;  a  poor  starter,  however,  is  worse  than  none.  The  culture,  necessary 
for  beginning  the  propagation  of  the  mother  starter,  may  be  obtained 
from  any  one  of  several  reliable  laboratories.  Both  liquid  and  powder 
cultures  are  on  the  market ;  either  may  be  used  successfully. 

Several  clean,  sterile  quart  bottles  are  filled  about  three-fourths 
full  of  fresh  clean  whole  or  skim  milk,  preferably  pasteurized.  These 
are  heated  in  a  water  bath  to  a  temperature  of  from  180°  to  190°  F 
for  one  hour  or  more,  or  in  an  autoclave  under  15  pounds  steam 
pressure  for  20  or  30  minutes,  and  then  cooled  to  80°  F.  They  should 
be  inoculated  with  the  culture  at  this,  temperature  late  in  the  after- 
noon, and  incubated  overnight  at  the  inoculation  temperature.  An 
electric  incubator  may  be  purchased,  or  a  wooden  box,  electrically 
wired  and  containing  a  rheostat  and  electric  light,  may  be  constructed. 
Some  cheese  makers  set  the  bottles  near  the  boiler,  or  in  a  warm  room, 
but  this  is  not  reliable,  since  the  temperature  may  change.  In  case 
this  procedure  is  necessary,  the  bottles  should  be  placed  in  a  water 
bath  at  the  incubation  temperature. 


10  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [CiRC.  13 

A  smooth  coagulation  should  be  obtained  by  the  following  morn- 
ing. The  bottles  should  then  be  placed  in  a  cold  room  at  a  tempera- 
ture below  40°  F  or  in  an  ice  box  until  used.  The  mother  starter  is 
carried  forward  the  second  and  succeeding  days,  the  same  procedure 
being  followed,  except  inoculations  are  made  from  a  small  amount  of 
the  mother  starter  made  the  previous  day,  and  incubations  are  made 
at  a  temperature  of  70°  F. 

The  quantity  of  milk  needed  for  the  bulk  starter  is  selected  and 
pasteurized  in  a  starter  can,  or  in  ten-gallon  cans  at  a  temperature 
of  180°  or  190°  F  for  one  hour.  It  is  then  cooled  to  70°  F  and  inocu- 
lated with  the  mother  starter.  The  amount  necessary  depends  on  the 
strength  of  the  mother  starter,  the  temperature  of  incubation,  and  the 
initial  acidity  of  the  milk.  When  the  milk  is  held  at  a  constant  tem- 
perature of  70°  F.,  about  1.0  per  cent  of  starter  will  be  required. 
The  starter  should  have  a  clean  acid  flavor,  with  0.65  to  0.90  per  cent 
acidity,  be  free  from  objectionable  gas  formation,  show  no  whey 
separation  on  top,  and  be  smooth  and  creamy  after  thorough  agitation. 

WHOLE-MILK    MONTEREY    CHEESE 

The  equipment  in  a  cheddar-cheese  factory  may  be  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  Monterey  cheese,  except  that  vertical  presses  and 
cloths  instead  of  metal  hoops  should  be  used  in  pressing  the  cheese. 

Adding  the  Starter  and  Rennet  {Setting). — ^From  0.5  to  1.0  per 
cent  of  starter  is  added  to  the  milk.  However,  if  the  acidity  of  the 
milk  is  above  0.18  per  cent,  only  0.25  per  cent  should  be  added.  An 
amount  of  rennet  sufficient  to  coagulate  the  milk  in  25  to  35  minutes 
should  be  added  at  86°  F  to  raw  milk  or  at  88°  F  to  pasteurized  milk. 
The  amount  of  rennet  will  vary  inversely  with  the  acidity  of  the  milk 
and  the  strength  of  the  rennet.  Under  average  conditions,  from  four 
to  six  ounces  of  the  better  quality  of  commercial  rennet  for  each 
1000  pounds  of  milk  will  be  required.  Rennet  should  be  measured 
accurately  in  a  clean  glass  cylinder,  graduated  in  ounces  or  cubic 
centimeters  (one  ounce  equals  30  cc),  and  should  be  diluted  to  about 
20  times  its  volume  with  pure  cold  water. 

The  diluted  rennet  is  added  to  the  milk,  being  distributed  from 
one  end  of  the  vat  to  the  other.  The  milk  is  then  agitated  vigorously 
for  two  or  three  minutes  until  the  rennet  is  thoroughly  distributed. 
After  this  agitation,  the  milk  in  the  gate  valve  should  be  drawn  off  and 
poured  into  the  vat.  The  milk  should  be  quieted  by  pressing  a  pail 
into  the  surface  in  the  center  of  the  vat.    After  the  milk  is  quiet,  the 


1927] 


THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  MONTEREY   CHEESE 


11 


vat  should  be  covered  with  a  cloth  or  canvas  in  order  that  the  tem- 
perature of  the  milk  may  remain  as  nearly  uniform  as  possible  (fig.  3). 
Cutting  the  Curd. — The  firmness  of  the  curd  may  be  tested  by 
inserting  the  index  finger  or  a  floating  thermometer  into  the  curd 
diagonally,  then  raising  it  slowly,  breaking  the  curd.  If  the  latter 
splits  cleanly,  with  a  clear  separation  of  whey,  it  is  ready  to  be  cut. 
Usually  30  minutes  is  required  for  coagulating.  Cutting  may  be 
done  with  ordinary  cheddar  curd  knives,  preferably  of  the  wire  type ; 
first,  lengthwise  of  the  vat  with  the  horizontal  knife,  then  crosswise 
and  lengthwise  with  the  vertical  knife. 


Fig.  3.^ — The  vat  covered  by  a  cloth  cover  during  the  coagulation  period. 


Cooking  the  Curd. — Three  to  five  minutes  after  cutting,  the  curd 
which  sticks  to  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  vat  should  be  removed  with 
a  wooden  paddle  or  with  the  hands,  and  the  curd  should  be  agitated 
very  gently  to  prevent  matting.  Ten  minutes  after  cutting,  the  steam 
or  warm  water  should  be  turned  into  the  jacket.  The  temperature 
should  be  raised  1°  F  during  the  first  five  minutes,  and  1°  or  2°  F 
during  the  second  five  minutes  of  heating.  The  heating  is  continued 
until  the  cooking  temperature  of  98°  to  105°  F  is  reached  during  the 
following  twenty  minutes. 


12  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [CiRC.  13 

The  curd  is  held  at  the  cooking  temperature  until  it  has  been 
properly  firmed,  the  period  required  usually  being  one  and  one-quarter 
hours,  depending  upon  the  acidity,  the  percentage  of  butterfat  in 
the  milk,  and  the  slowness  of  heating  during  the  first  ten  minutes. 
During  the  heating  and  cooking  periods,  the  curd  should  be  agitated 
sufficiently  to  prevent  the  cubes  from  matting  together.  This  will 
require  almost  constant  agitation  at  first,  but  after  the  curd  has 
been  partially  "firmed,"  less  stirring  is  required.  Agitation  may 
be  accomplished  by  using  a  curd  rake,  hand  agitator,  or  power  driven 
mechanical  agitators. 

Drawing  the  Whey  (Dipping). — There  are  no  accurate  tests  to 
determine  the  time  when  the  whey  should  be  drawn  off,  the  process 
being  known  as  'dipping.'  The  cheese-maker  must  learn  this  from  his 
experience  and  from  the  moisture  tests  of  the  cured  cheese.  The 
whey  may  be  drawn  when  the  curd  has  been  'firmed'  enough,  when 
there  are  few  remaining  'soft  centers,'  and  when  it  becomes  slightly 
rubbery  and  springs  apart  if  pressed  between  the  hands.  The  acidity 
at  dipping  should  not  exceed  0.14  per  cent.  The  time  of  dipping  is 
also  influenced  by  the  time  required  for  the  whey  to  run  from  the 
vat.  In  the  larger  vats,  dipping  should  begin  earlier.  The  whey 
should  be  run  through  a  whey  separator  in  order  to  recover  the  lost 
butterfat,  which  usually  amounts  to  from  0.20  to  0.30  per  cent.  A 
cheese  factory  cannot  afford  to  operate  without  separating  the  whey. 

Cooling  the  Curd. — While  the  whey  is  being  drawn  off'  and  as  soon 
as  the  curd  appears  above  the  top  of  it,  the  curd  should  be  cooled  to 
a  temperature  of  about  86°  F  by  running  cold  water  into  the  jacket, 
and  agitating  gently  in  order  to  prevent  matting.  If  the  curd  mats, 
it  must  be  broken  up  by  hand,  a  process  which  causes  excessive  losses 
of  butterfat.  After  the  temperature  of  86°  F  is  reached,  the  remain- 
ing whey  is  drawn  off.  Alternate  trenching  and  mixing  of  the  curd 
aid  in  draining  off  the  last  of  tlie  whey. 

Many  manufacturers  run  pure  cold  tap  water  into  the  vat  on  the 
curd  as  the  last  of  the  whey  is  drawn  off.  This  water  is  then  drawn 
off  as  soon  as  the  desired  temperature  is  reached.  Although  this 
method  gives  a  very  mild  cheese,  precaution  must  be  taken  not  to 
soak  the  curd  with  water,  thus  obtaining  a  high  moisture  test. 

Salting  the  Curd. — After  the  whey  or  water  has  been  well  drained 
off,  about  20  to  30  minutes  after  the  end  of  the  dipping  process,  the 
curd  is  spread  out  over  the  bottom  of  the  vat.  Cheese  salt  is  sprinkled 
over  it,  preferably  in  two  applications,  the  curd  and  salt  being 
thoroughly  mixed  after  each  addition.     The  amount  of  salt  to  use 


1927]  rj^jij^  MANUFACTURE  OF   MONTEREY   CHEESE  13 

varies  from  2.5  to  3.5  pounds  for  each  1000  pounds  of  milk,  depending 
upon  the  market  requirements  and  the  amount  of  salt  lost  during 
pressing.  All  salt  should  be  completely  dissolved  while  the  curd  is 
in  the  vat. 

Placing  the  Curd  in  Cloths. — Cloths  instead  of  metal  hoops  are 
used  for  molding  Monterey  cheese.  They  should  be  made  of  heavy 
muslin  or  sheeting  and  should  be  about  34  inches  square.  They 
should  be  washed  and  sterilized  in  boiling  water  each  time  before 
using.  They  are  laid  out  evenly,  one  over  the  other,  and  are  spread 
over  the  top  of  a  large  pail,  metal  bandager,  or  some  other  contrivance. 


\ 


Fig.  4. — Molding  the  curd  in  cloths. 

The  centers  of  the  cloths  are  pushed  down  and  the  edges  left  hanging 
over  the  sides.  From  8  to  11  pounds  of  curd,  enough  to  make  a  6  or 
9-pound  cheese,  is  weighed  or  measured  and  poured  into  the  top 
press  cloth.  The  four  corners  are  taken  up,  the  whole  cloth  is  straight- 
ened out,  and  the  curd  is  formed  as  nearly  round  as  possible.  As  the 
cloth  is  tightened,  the  curd  within  is  given  a  rolling  motion  on  the  side 
of  the  vat  or  on  a  table  and  is  pressed  with  the  hand  to  expel  as  much 
of  the  whey  as  possible  (fig.  4).  The  cloth  is  then  tied  tightly  with 
a  cloth  string,  and  the  excess  cloth  is  spread  out  evenly  over  the 
top  of  the  roll  of  curd  in  order  that  an  even  indentation  will  appear 
on  the  pressed  cheese. 


14 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE 


[CiRC.  13 


Pressimj  the  Cheese. — Vertical  presses,  which  should  slope  slightly 
in  order  to  permit  draining  of  the  whey  (fig.  5)  are  used.  Too  much 
pressure,  however,  may  burst  the  cloths  or  press  out  too  much  moist- 
ure. Because  presses  do  not  give  continuous  pressure,  a  weight  or 
railway-car  spring  may  be  placed  directly  under  the  pressure  plate. 


Fig.  0. — ^Tlie  cheeses  in  a  vertical  press. 

In  small  factories  or  on  the  farm  where  there  is  small  production,  the 
cheeses  may  be  pressed  between  heavy  12-inch  boards  with  weights  on 
top.  They  are  left  overnight  and  the  cloths  are  removed  the  following 
morning.  If  the  press  cloths  stick  to  the  cheese,  pulling  out  pieces 
of  curd,  it  is  likely  that  too  much  pressure  Avas  applied,  or  that  the 
surfaces  of  the  cheese  became  too  dry  during  the  pressing  period. 
Less  pressure,  application  of  water  to  the  cheese,  or  spraying  water 
on  the  floors  of  the  room  will  aid  in  preventing  such  a  condition. 
Dirty  cloths  or  cloths  with  too  large  mesh  may  also  cause  this  difficulty. 
Stenciling  and  Paraffining. — The  cheese,  upon  being  taken  from 
the  press,  may  be  piled  on  trucks  and  transported  to  the  drying  room, 
the  temperature  of  which  should  be  between  60°  F  and  70°  F.  Within 
a  f  CAV  hours  they  will  be  dry  enough  to  permit  stenciling  on  the  smooth 
side.     The  label  required  by  the  California  Dairy  Law  indicates  the 


1927]  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  MONTEREY  CHEESE  15 

variety — whether  whole-milk  cheese,  part-skim  cheese,  or  skim  cheese 
— and  the  license  number  of  the  factory  (fig.  6).  It  is  desirable  to 
have  also  a  date  code  for  the  information  of  the  manufacturer,  in  case 
the  cheeses  should  become  mixed  on  the  shelves  or  in  case  any  should 
be  returned.  Code  numbers  are  preferable  to  actual  dates,  as  they 
help  prevent  difficulties  in  marketing.  An  example  of  a  suitable  code 
is  given  by  the  numbers  81571.  The  first  figure  "8"  indicates  the 
eighth  month,  the  "15"  the  day  of  the  month  when  the  cheese  was 
made,  "7"  the  year  1927,  and  "1"  the  vat  number.  The  cheese  pro- 
duced on  the  same  day  from  vat  numbers  2,  3,  and  4,  would  be  labeled 
similarly,  except  that  the  last  number  would  be  changed  in  each  case. 


Fig.  (3. — Cheese  labeled  on  tlie  smootli  side  according  to  the  requirements  of 
the  California  Dairy  Laws;  and  the  rough  side  of  the  cheese,  showing  indentations 
made  by  press  cloth. 

With  this  system,  the  cheese  may  always  be  compared  with  the  corre- 
sponding cheese-making  report  (form  1),  which  shows  the  same  serial 
number.  The  cheeses  should  be  turned  twice  daily  until  the  surface 
moisture  has  evaporated.  From  two  to  six  days  are  usually  required, 
according  to  the  temperature  and  humidity  of  the  drying  room.  They 
should  then  be  dipped  in  hot  paraffin  at  a  temperature  of  from  220°  F 
to  240°  F  for  a  period  of  from  six  to  ten  seconds.  Care  must  be 
taken  that  the  indentations  on  the  cheese  are  completely  covered  with 
paraffin. 

The  paraffin  prevents  excessive  loss  of  moisture,  aids  in  preventing 
the  growth  of  mold,  mites,  and  skippers,  and  gives  a  neat,  attractive 
appearance  to  the  cheese.  Some  markets,  however,  prefer  the  un- 
paraffined  cheese.  In  this  case,  a  thick,  hard  rind  usually  forms  on 
the  outside  during  the  curing  process. 


16 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE 


[CiRC.  13 


The  cheese  is  then  placed  on  shelves  in  the  curing  room.  Some 
factories  use  the  same  room  for  drying  and  curing,  but  this  is  not 
satisfactory  as  the  drying  room  should  have  a  lower  humidity. 

Curing  the  Cheese.- — The  curing  room  should  have  a  temperature 
of  about  60°  F,  and  should  be  well  ventilated.  A  moderate  amount 
of  moisture,  about  70  per  cent  relative  humidity,  should  be  maintained. 
The  shelves  (fig.  7)  should  be  constructed  of  wood,  preferably  of 
pine,  and  should  be  planed  smoothly  on  both  sides.  They  should  be 
wider  than  the  cheese  and  should  be  placed  on  the  supports  without 
fastening  in  order  that  they  may  be  turned. 


Fig.  7. — The  cheeses  on  shelves  in  the  curing  room, 
merely  laid  on  the  supports. 


Note  that  the  slielves  are 


The  cheeses  themselves  should  be  turned  every  two  or  three  days 
during  the  curing  process  and  the  shelves  should  be  kept  clean  and 
dry.  At  intervals  of  one  or  two  weeks,  according  to  the  tendency  for 
mold  growth,  the  tops  of  the  shelves  should  be  cleared  and  washed 
with  a  solution  of  formaldehyde.  One-half  pint  of  formalin  to  three 
gallons  of  water  is  a  suitable  strength,  since  the  dilution  is  not 
injurious  to  the  hands  or  eyes.  Formalin  may  be  purchased  from 
any  druggist  or  chemical  supply  house.  After  being  so  treated,  the 
shelf  boards  should  be  turned  and  the  cheese  placed  on  the  dry  side. 
Cheese  should  neve}-  he  placed  on  wet  shelves.  If  the  shelves  become 
greasy  and  badly  contaminated  with  mold,  they  should  be  removed 


1927]  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  MONTEREY  CHEESE  17 

from  the  room  and  washed  with  hot  water  and  alkali,  rinsed,  and 
dried  in  the  sunlight,  before  the  formaldehyde  is  applied. 
The  curing  room  should  be  kept  free  from  cheese  pests. ^ 

Mai'keting  the  Cheese. — Monterey  cheese  is  usually  ready  for  the 
market  after  from  three  to  six  weeks  of  curing.  Some  manufacturers 
allow  a  shorter  period  for  curing,  but  this  practice  is  not  recom- 
mended. The  cheese  is  usually  packed  in  boxes  for  shipping,  although 
it  is  sometimes  piled  in  large  trucks  and  transported  to  the  cities  with- 
out packing.  This  is  not  advisable  unless  the  roads  are  exceptionally 
smooth. 

Though  the  greater  part  of  Monterey  cheese  manufactured  in 
California  is  marketed  in  the  larger  cities,  it  is  gaining  in  popularity 
in  the  smaller  towns.  The  market  quotations  are  printed  in  the  daily 
newspapers  and  are  now  being  given  over  the  radio. 


Fig.  8. — Left,  a  gassy  cheese;  riglit,  the  ideal  porous  body. 

While  the  market  requirements  for  Monterey  cheese  vary  in  the 
different  cities,  all  usually  specify  that  the  cheese  hold  its  shape,  and 
have  a  soft  mellow  texture  and  a  porous  body,  the  latter  resulting 
from  the  natural  process  of  manufacture  and  not  from  gas  formation 
in  the  cheese  (fig.  8). 

Keeping  Make-Sheet  Records. — A  record  sheet  giving  a  permanent 
record  of  amounts  and  methods  should  be  filled  out  for  each  vat  of 
cheese  manufactured.  Such  a  record  is  helpful  in  locating  difficulties 
in  case  of  returned  cheese  and  affords  a  basis  from  which  a  report  of 
the  total  yearly  production  in  the  factory,  as  required  by  the  Cali- 
fornia Dairy  Law,  can  be  calculated.  An  example  of  a  suitable  record 
is  given  in  form  1. 


8  deOng,  E.  R.,  and  C.  L.  Roadhouse.     Clieese  pests  and  their  control.     Califor- 
nia Agr.  Exp.  Sta.  Bui.  343:408-422.     1922. 


18  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [CiRC.  13 


Form  1 
MONTEEEY  CHEESE  MAKING  EEPORT 

Date Serial  No 

Amount  of  milk Number    washings Acid  .. 

Condition Temp Time  salted   Acid.. 

Temp,  of  pasteurization Amount  of  salt Acid  .. 

Per  cent  of  fat Acid Time  pressed  

Amount  of  starter Eate Time  setting  to  pressing 

Amount  of  rennet Eate Brand    

Temp,  when  added Acid Number  made   

Time    set Weight  of  green  cheese 

Time   cut Acid Weight  of  cured  cheese 

Time  in  coagulating Amount  cheese  1  lb.  fat 

Time   steam   applied Amount  cheese  100  lbs.  milk 

Time  raising  temp Per  cent  moisture 

Temp,  cooked  Per   cent   butterfat 

Time  dipped Acid Per  cent  butterfat  in  dry  matter 

Per  cent  fat  in  whey 

Eemarks: 


Cheese  maker 


PART-SKIM    AND    SKIM    MONTEREY    CHEESE 

The  California  Dairy  Law  defines  part-sl^im  cheese  as  that  ''con- 
taining not  less  than  30  per  cent  of  pure  milk  fat  in  its  water-free 
substance."  Skim  cheese  is  that  "containing  less  than  30  per  cent 
pure  milk  fat  in  its  water-free  substance." 

In  the  manufacture  of  part-skim  and  skim  cheese  the  milk  is 
standardized  lower  than  for  whole-milk  Monterey.  The  process  of 
manufacture  of  these  types  of  cheese  is  similar  to  that  used  for  whole- 
milk  Monterey  except  that  lower  temperatures  of  cooking  are  required 
in  the  firming  of  the  curd. 


1927]  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  MONTEREY  CHEESE  19 


NON-STANDARD    JACK    CHEESE 

The  name  'Non-standard  Jack'  has  been  given  to  the  Monterey 
cheese  when  it  contains  more  than  42  per  cent  of  moisture.  There 
appears  to  be  a  demand  in  some  markets  for  this  soft,  high-moisture 
cheese.  The  California  Dairy  Law  does  not  define  Non-standard  Jack 
cheese,  but  classifies  it  as  a  special  variety  which  may  be  manufactured 
and  sold  under  a  written  permit  issued  by  the  California  State  De- 
part of  Agriculture.  The  standards  of  composition  for  Non-standard 
Jack  cheese  are  the  same  as  for  Monterey  in  regard  to  fat,  and  the 
maximum  moisture  content  may  be  regulated  by  California  State 
Department  of  Agriculture. 

This  special  type  must  be  labeled  'Non-standard  Jack  cheese'  and 
the  date  of  manufacture  must  appear  on  the  cheese.  It  must  be  sold 
to  the  consumer  within  three  weeks  of  the  date  of  manufacture,  since 
the  high  percentage  of  moisture  injures  the  keeping  qualities. 

The  process  of  manufacture  of  Non-standard  Jack  cheese  is  simi- 
lar to  that  for  Monterey  except  that  the  curd  is  dipped  while  in  a  very 
soft  condition,  thus  leaving  an  excessive  amount  of  moisture  in  the 
cheese. 


SUMMARY    OF    THE    STEPS    IN    THE    PROCESS    OF    MANUFACTURE 
OF    WHOLE-MILK    MONTEREY    CHEESE 

1.  Pasteurize  the  milk. 

2.  Take  acidity  test  (should  not  be  over  0.18  per  cent). 

3.  Take  sample  of  milk  for  butterfat  test. 

4.  Standardize  if  desirable. 

5.  Add  %  to  1  per  cent  starter. 

6.  Heat  milk  to  88°  F. 

7.  Measure  rennet,  4  to  6  ounces  for  each  1000  pounds  of  milk, 

dilute  it  by  adding  cold  water,  and  add  it  to  milk. 

8.  Agitate  thoroughly,  draw  milk  from  gate-valve  and  pour  back, 

and  quiet  the  milk. 

9.  Cover  the  vat  with  canvas  or  cloth. 

10.  Cut  curd  whl&n  firm.     Use  the  horizontal  knife  lengthwise,  the 

vertical  knife  crosswise  and  lengthwise. 

11.  Three  to  five  minutes  after  cutting,  begin  to  stir  the  curd. 


20  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [ClRC.  13 

12.  Ten  minutes  after  cutting,  begin  heating.     Raise  the  tempera- 

ture 1°  F  in  the  first  five  minutes  and  1°  or  2°  F  during  the 
second  five  minutes.  It  should  reach  98°  to  105°  F  during 
the  next  twenty  minutes. 

13.  Agitate  sufficiently  to  prevent  matting  from  time  of  cutting 

until  the  curd  is  dipped. 

14.  Draw  the  whey  when  the  curd  is  firm. 

15.  Cool  the  curd  to  86°  F  by  running  cold  water  into  the  jacket  or 

by  running  pure  cold  tap  water  on  the  curd  in  the  vat. 

16.  After  the  curd  has  drained,  add  2.5  to  3.5  pounds  of  salt  for 

each  1000  pounds  of  milk. 

17.  After  the  salt  has  dissolved,  weigh  or  measure  into  press  cloths, 

roll,  and  tie  with  cloth  strings. 

18.  Place  cheese  in  the  press,  and  press  during  the  night. 

19.  Remove  from  press,  take  off  cloths,  transport  to  drying  room. 

20.  Stencil  when  the  smooth  surface  is  dry. 

21.  After  from  two  to  six  days,  dip  in  paraffin  at  220°  to  240°  F 

for  six  to  ten  seconds,  and  place  in  curing  room. 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 

Acknowledgment  is  made  of  the  helpful  assistance  of  Mr.  0.  A. 
Ghiggiole  of  the  Bureau  of  Dairy  Control  of  the  California  State 
Department  of  Agriculture  in  supplying  statistics  and  offering  sug- 
gestions, to  C.  M.  Titus,  who  derived  the  formulas  for  the  calculations 
in  the  second  problem  on  standardization,  and  to  the  members  of 
the  Dairy  Industry  Division  who  advised  in  the  preparation  of  the 
manuscript. 


